Trekking Nepal: Langtang

This trip was a special trip for me as my daughter asked if she could go on my next big trip. An opportunity to do one of my trips with my child at her request is very special. Soon after we returned Nepal suffered a major earthquake where Langtang was at the epicentre, I was upset for months afterwards having enjoyed the company of the Nepalese people and seeing the many images of the extensive destruction of their homes and life. Whenever I can I will return and recommend to friends to visit and support the trekking industry: the mountains and scenery and people are altogether simply stunning. We have to move forward in our lives, natural catastrophic events will occur on occasion anywhere around the world, and equally, man-made ones can effect us just as badly.

Off to Nepal

Everything was going to plan, we left Melbourne on time and arrived in Kuala Lumpur relaxed after a smooth flight. No complaints flying with Malaysian Airways, their service was good and attentive, our error was in the seating in that we chose a location near the toilet so we were interrupted by the lines of people queuing and jostling to get to them after feed times. Kuala Lumpur airport had plenty of distractions to while the time between flights. 3 1/2 hours layover and we off on the 2nd leg to Kathmandu: where the flight was delayed due to cloud affecting visibility in and around the Nepali capital. 1/2 an hour out of Nepal and we turned around to land in Bangladesh. We sat on the tarmac staring at the desolate, and ugly bare concrete structures of Bangladesh waiting over 5 hours until the clouds cleared and we were given the OK to fly. One slight hiccup to leaving was that the pilot had to negotiate new permissions to fly over Indian airspace.

Our guide was waiting patiently for us, settled us at a restaurant to go over the plans and give us some much needed food. My head was splitting due to the long hours cooped up in the plane. Katie also was almost in a state of collapse. It was very hard to concentrate on the plans and costings, luckily most had been arranged well before. I would have been happier to have had that 6 hours sleeping in the hotel. 
 
 
We needed to go over the plans carefully as this was a rush job - a trip on the rebound. My initial intent was to visit northern India in the Himalaya region near Kanchanjunga, however it was a trick exercise coordinating flights and permits etc, especially for a tight two week period so Nepal won. I wanted to visit the Tamang region near Gatlang to give us a chance to acclimatize, and see a less visited area by tourists, and to visit the Langtang valley and Gosainkund lakes, in a very tight time frame of two weeks. Can it be done ?

The TIMS card is a way for Nepal to earn revenue for their great tourist asset and provide assistance in the event someone gets into strife. Each region you travel to involves a fee and permission according to its location, popularity and cultural significance. This pass had to be arranged in an express manner as we had lost so much time and our intent was to leave immediately the next day. Somehow our guide 'knew someone' and it was all done. 
 

From my notes I see that the costings are as follows:
  1. $20 x 2 TIMS Permit
  2. $35 x 2 Langtang trekking pass.
  3. $25 x 16 days Guide
  4. $16 x 16 days Porter
  5. $200 4wd transport private hire
  6. $60 transport back
  7. $30 airport transfer
  8. $30 per day approx for food and lodgings approx

Trip Plan

It takes a few weeks of planning and reading to make a successful adventure. My plans were initially to go to the Indian Himalaya regions, but due to ever changing flight rescheduling and difficult in getting a tight, safe itinerary worked out for 2 weeks I swapped to Nepal. I owe a lot to the Lonely Planet books and various blogs and tour company itineraries for assisting with my plans.
 
Here is the planned itinerary and alterations per my guide's suggestions to better acclimatize and moderate walking times:
  1. 27-MAR Arrive Kathmandu 12:30 stay at Backyard Hotel
  2. 28-MAR drive to Syabru Bensi 1460m, trek to Gatlang. Change to overnight stay at Syabru Bensi 4hrs.
  3. 29-MAR Gatlang trek to Tatopani hot spring : change to Gatlang 2238m (5-6 hrs)
  4. 30-MAR Tatopani trek to Thuman 5 hrs: change to Tatopani 2609m
  5. Thuman trek to Briddim (7hrs): change to Nagthali Ghyang. 3165m.
  6. 31-MAR Thuman trek to Bridhim (7hr): change to Nagthali 3165m
  7. 01-APR Briddim trek to Lama Hotel (5-6hrs): change to Briddim 2229m.
  8. 02-APR Lama Hotel trek to Langtang village (4-5hrs): change to Lama Hotel 2470m.
  9. 03-APR Langtang trek to Kyanjin Gompa (3-4 hrs): Langtang (3430m)
  10. 04-APR Kyangjin Gompa acclimatization / excursion day.: change to Langtang trek to Kyanjin 3840m.
  11. 05-APR Bamboo Hotel (possible emergency exit here): change to Climb 4770m then descend to Langtang
  12. 06-APR Sing Gompa: change to Bamboo hotel 1970m
  13. 07-APR Chandan Bari / Sing Gompa trek to Gosainkund: change to Sing Gompa
  14. 08-APR Gosainkund lake via pass to Ghopte: change to Lache (4380m) to Laurebina (3910m)
  15. 09-APR Ghopte trek to Kutumsang: change to Dhunche
  16. 10-APR Kutumsang to Chisapani, drive to Kathmandu: change to Dhunche
  17. 11-APR fly home

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